Bear Viewing Alaskan Style
Katmai National Park and Preserve
As we stepped over the tundra-covered ridge and descended the hill in Katmai National Park, I immediately counted five bears. Our group paused as a bear sauntered directly in front of us. After he passed, we locked arms and waded through the flowing, knee-deep creek to a rocky peninsula. Everyone settled in to watch.
Upstream, three enormous males fished and feasted on the spawned-out silver salmon that congested the water. Behind us, not more than 20 feet away, grizzlies popped out from under the bushy willows and lumbered to the stream. On the ridge we had crossed that morning, several bears lounged, lying on bloated bellies with legs sprawled out behind. Framed by the mountain range, two cubs wrestled on a distant hillside. All told, I counted 11 bears. Sometimes, grizzlies were on every side.
Known for some of the world’s best bear viewing, approximately 2,000 coastal brown bears, aka grizzlies, live within Katmai National Park’s boundaries. Katmai ranks as the nation’s fifth-largest designated wilderness. Its Valley of 10,000 Smokes was created in 1912 after the 20th century’s biggest eruption. That eruption inspired the National Geographic Society to campaign for establishment of Katmai National Monument.
“We don’t know what’s going to happen from day to day,” said Tony Dobert, pilot and guide for Bald Mountain Air. “Patience is key, so we mask our agenda and act indifferent to the bears. It allows us to get closer to them.”
Although bear-viewing flights can originate out of Anchorage, Homer remains the hub for Katmai bear viewing. Weather is reliably good; flights are short and plentiful. Alaskan pilots use Visual Flight Rules, relying on visual cues for navigation and orientation. Trips are always weather dependent; it’s wise to allow several days for flexibility in case weather doesn’t cooperate.
Seven Glaciers Restaurant at Hotel Alyeska
Girdwood
From the moment we boarded the aerial tram for our trip up the mountain to the last bite of dessert, the spectacular view and cuisine at Hotel Alyeska’s Seven Glaciers restaurant delivered a magical evening. At 2,300 feet above sea level, floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the greens and blues of summer amid the jagged Kenai peaks. Winter lures skiers looking to conquer the double black diamond run that plummets below the restaurant.
Groups will find much to savor at Alaska’s only AAA four-diamond restaurant and Wine Spectator award winner. Chef Jason Porter has commandeered the resort’s cuisine for the past four years. He continually puts his stamp on new dishes and has personalized longstanding favorites, such as the scallop bisque.
Locally available produce, seafood and game are used whenever possible. There’s also an extensive vegetarian and gluten-free menu. Porter doesn’t use flour in most sauces, even on the regular menu. He tweaks dishes to accommodate vegan diners, too. Level I sommeliers readily suggest pairings from the 3,000 bottles on hand.
“Along the way, I’ve learned not to overcomplicate the plate and make beautiful food without too many ingredients,” said Chef Porter. “We have one of Alaska’s largest wine collections, ranging from really high-end to very affordable labels.”
