Pearl
San Antonio
In the world of development corporations and LLCs, it’s rare to have one person leading the charge. But that’s what happened with the redevelopment of the dilapidated 22-acre Pearl Brewery site in San Antonio. As the sole owner of the mixed-use project, Kit Goldsbury was able to realize his vision of creating a culinary gathering place and a hub of culinary education that could help revitalize the entire neighborhood.
The project salvaged and restored Pearl’s most historic buildings, including the 1894 Brewhouse and Stable and the 1904 administration building, then reimagined and renovated less-historic properties, such as the 1970s Full Goods Building.
At Pearl, visitors will find a weekly farmers market where Pearl’s chef does tastings and demos, and festivals throughout the year that feature traditional foods, such as the annual tamale festival every December. One of CIA’s three campuses is also located at Pearl, as is the school’s student-run restaurant, NAO.
“It’s a beautiful area to explore,” said Elizabeth Fauerso, chief marketing officer for Pearl. “It’s this really dense culinary experience, from incredible coffee to artisanal ice cream to full meals.”
By year’s end, Pearl expects to have 15 restaurants, not a single chain among them. Bakery Lorraine opened this fall. The classic French bakery and patisserie is the effort of two pastry chefs who worked with Thomas Keller at Bouchon.
Chef Jeff Balfour’s restaurant, Southerleigh, is slated to open in part of the original Brewhouse building in December and will feature indoor/outdoor space, a beer garden and horseshoe pits. The menu will feature Balfour’s take on cross-cultural Texas cuisine from Gulf seafood to ranch beef, and the restaurant partnered with Les Locke, formerly of Branchline Brewing Co., to brew several beers on-site.
Charm City Flavor
Baltimore
Over the past few years, Baltimore’s culinary scene has been experiencing a renaissance. Several neighborhoods are in the throes of culinary revivals, including downtown and the revitalized Harbor East neighborhood, which will grow even more when the neighboring Harbor Point is developed.
The Station North arts district on Charles Street has a burgeoning culinary scene with more than a dozen restaurants sprinkled among traditional row homes. Even the city’s hotel industry is stepping up its game; several hotels have brought in James Beard Award-nominated executive chefs to run their kitchens.
“We’ve become a very deep and rich culinary town,” said Tom Noonan, president and CEO of Visit Baltimore. “Everything from high-end Greek, seafood, Italian — you name it, it’s here. We have a very diverse culinary scene.”
Farm-to-table cooking is also a major factor in local fare, especially with fresh seafood from the Chesapeake Bay, including the famous Maryland blue crab, he said.
Although Baltimore’s culinary palate has changed in recent years, the city still has its tried-and-true fixtures, including in Little Italy, where “everybody’s got their favorite restaurant,” Noonan said. Sabatino’s is known for its salads. Aldo’s is famous for its wild boar.
Locals love down-home delis and barbecue at institutions like Chap’s Pit Beef and Attman’s Delicatessen. Chap’s first opened in 1987 in a shack with no electricity and no phone. Nearly 30 years later, it has been featured on television shows including “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives,” “Man vs. Food” and “The Best Thing I Ever Ate.” Attman’s opened in 1915 and still makes its own corned beef seven days a week.
“[They’re] part of Baltimore,” Noonan said. “They’re the kind of place the locals are like, ‘Man, I just gotta have some pit beef.’ They’re hidden gems that have been around forever.”
